Archive for October, 2010

Liquid Apfelstrudel

We went for a walk today, following the road/path that leads to the top of Kjølen. Winter has come early this year, we’ve had the first snow a few weeks ago. It keeps melting away though, so we weren’t sure what the snow conditions higher up would be like.  At first, the snow wasn’t very deep and the path had been used by many others.

The path we followed up A partly frozen stream

The road leads to a couple of lakes that are used as a source of drinking water. From there, we followed a path marked by poles. Nobody else had taken the path though, and the snow was much deeper this high up (400 m), so we put our snowshoes on. I finally bought myself a “real” pair of snowshoes. We both have a pair of army snowshoes – much cheaper, but they are made for big army guys ;) and way too wide for me. I was very keen to try my new ones! For those interested, I bought the Atlas Electra 12. They are brilliant; really easy to put on (even with my large mittens), lightweight, and very comfortable.

On the way up Me and my new snowshoes

At the shore of one of the lakes, we found these frost flowers growing on top of the ice. So pretty!

Big ice crystals growing on the ice of a lake Very beautiful ice crystals!

You might wonder why I gave this blog such a strange title :D We usually take a thermos with a hot drink with us… but today we were out of all the drinks we like to bring. I went trough the kitchen cupboards to see if I could find anything else suitable. I found a box of “Lämmin Kuppi Omena-Kaneli” which we bought in Finland, mainly out of curiosity as it looked like some kind of apple cinnamon soup. It was exactly that, but what we thought were croutons were actually small bits of apple like you find in apfelstrudels. It was quite amusing to experience liquid apfelstrudel :D but very yummy!!

Liquid apfelstrudel from Finland

We didn’t continue all the way to the top of Kjølen, as it was getting dark. We are losing daylight very fast now, by the end of November the sun will set for 2 months! On the way back down, we had a beautiful view of Tromsø island in the evening light….

Tromsø island in the evening light


We spent the first week of October in Crete, to catch some last sunshine before the dark and cold time starts there – and actually have a week of SUMMER which we hadn’t had this year! We chose Crete because there is a direct (charter) flight to Chania from Tromsø. The flight time is about 5 hours. I left my gps on during both legs of the flights, so you can see our route below :)

Flight path to (in green) and from (in red) Crete

We rented a car, as our accommodation was at the other side of the island. It took quite a lot of time searching the internet before we found something we liked. Most of the accommodation on Crete is in big blocks next to the beach, and we wanted something more private and less touristy. We found a cottage called Sarich Cottage. It was located in the east of Crete, in a very small village. It took about 4 hours to drive there from the airport. Here are some photos of the cottage (which Paul refused to call “cottage” as it didn’t have a thatched roof…)

The cottage and our rental car The view from the terrace in front An impression of the cottage: the kitchen, bedroom, living room and terrace

The next morning we drove to a nearby beach and sat in the shade underneath a tree enjoying the view and the warm temperatures.

Enjoying the view in the shade The sea has such beautiful colours there!

We also visited a really nice village on the sea, called Mochlos. It’s very small, but it has many tavernas right on the waterfront. We ate there a couple of times, a great place! The second photo shows the view as we drove up from the village. Olive trees everywhere!

Mochlos, a cute village with nice tavernas right on the waterfront The view as we drove up - lots of olive trees. The island has ancient ruins and we thought about swimming there, but the sea was very rough.

We drove a dirt road into the mountains, stopping at a very old olive tree – claimed to be more than 3000 years old! Very impressive.

Olives! I tried to eat one but it wasn't very tasty - they're not ready until November This olive tree is said to be more than 3000 years old... impressive!

A bit further up we decided the road was getting too difficult to drive, and we went for a walk. Nice views! The white flowers were everywhere, not sure what they are, but they are pretty. We watched the sunset from the top of the hill, and suddenly we felt the earth move quite clearly. Not violently, and no rocks started rolling or anything, but it still was a strange feeling to feel the hill move back and forth. We later found out it was a 5.0 earthquake in the sea not far from where we were.

Paul enjoying the view, and watching the crazy road that goes high up in the mountains These plants were everywhere! They grow from bulbs that look like garlic, but no idea what it is

We walked around Pachia Ammos, the village on the beach closest to our cottage. It was a very windy day, and the waves were crashing on this little pier.

A very blurry photo, but the sea was impressively wild!

The next day we explored the south coast. We had both bought snorkelling gear, which we were eager to try out. We found a nice little beach and had fun snorkelling. The beach was right underneath a monestary (Moni Kapsa) overlooking a gorge called Perivolakia gorge. We decided to go for a walk in the gorge. There are a lot of gorges on Crete! This one was really beautiful, steep rock walls glowing orange in the evening sun.

Entering Perivolakia gorge Deeper into the gorge - it was so beautiful there!

There were some goats walking around, and lots of caves. Paul climbed up to one of the caves; he said you could smell the goats use them as shelter ;). We walked quite deep into the gorge, and at some point you could smell wild thyme – so nice! It’s possible to walk all the way to the other side and come out in a village at an altitude of 500 m, but this takes several hours and not sure how to arrange transport back, so we turned around and went back to the car.

These prickly plants were everywhere - best to walk in long trousers! Paul climbed up to one of the many caves in the gorge. The goats seem to use them as shelter.

This is the view from the beach where we went swimming, towards the monastery and (on the left) the entrance to the gorge.

The monostary Moni Kapsa at the entrance to the gorge (seen on the left). We spent a while on the beach here, swimming and snorkelling

The next day we went to Elounda, because we had read this is a great place to go snorkelling. There are ruins of a “sunken city” which sounded very exciting. On our way to that place, I took this photo. Paul thought I was being mean taking a photo but this couple just made me giggle… each to their own, but not my idea of the perfect holiday :D

This couple made me giggle...

The “sunken city” was not as excited as we were hoping for – mostly piles of rocks under water. We did see nice fish though. Afterwards we drove to another village (Plaka), from where there were lots of boat trips available to Spinalonga island. We didn’t go on any tours, just walked around and enjoyed a nice ice cream.

Fishing boats Enjoying an ice cream

There were some nice shops there too!

Ceramic balls - loved the colours! A shop selling all kinds of things from the sea, amazing place!

What I loved most about our holiday was being able to eat outside for every meal. I was usually up before Paul, and took a book and a croissant to a comfy spot on the terrace. I was never alone though, there’s always company – cats! There are a LOT of them, and they are stray cats though they look like they are taken care of and fed quite well. I love cats, so I didn’t mind the company :) There are stray dogs too, but luckily not as many – I am a cat person and definitely not a dog person, they scare me.
Paul enjoyed eating pomegranates, they grow them a lot on Crete so he didn’t have to buy them – even in our garden there was a pomegranate tree.

Cats are everywhere... I believe they are stray cats, but they look healthy and well fed Paul enjoying his favourite fruit, which they grow a lot on Crete: pomegranates

We drove to the mountains, to a plateau (Katharo plateau) at 1100 m altitude. Quite impressive to drive up so high in the mountains, through more or less deserted landscape, until you suddenly come to a fertile plateau with lots of farms. We stopped at a big tree to have a break in the shade.

A fertile plateau, at about 1100 m altitude! A big tree

There was also a taverna there, where we had some fresh orange juice, and traditional yoghurt with honey – very nice!

Enjoying the shade of the big tree. In a hot climate, I can imagine how a tree like this can become the centre of a village One of the many goats we met in the mountains

On the way down we stopped and followed a path leading to a cave. It wasn’t a very deep one, but I had never before visited a cave that you can enter by yourself ;) and was quite impressed.

Inside a cave! It wasn't very deep but it was impressive to visit a cave without having to take a guided tour ;) Strange formations, and I don't understand how they can be diagonal like that! (the black shade in the foreground is because my lens is too big for the flash)

We stopped at Kritsa, a nice village on the way down to the coast.

Kritsa seen from above

It was built on the hillside and it was a maze of narrow streets, fun to explore! There were also a lot of shops selling cloth, which was the speciality of this village. I really enjoyed visiting this village, as it didn’t seem so crazy touristy as most of the places on the coast (even though this village is a tourist attraction too).

The narrow streets in the village I loved walking around the maze of narrow streets

This village is well known for woven sheets, mostly sold by old ladies ;) Lots of places to eat outside... often there were old men playing backgammon

You'd often suddenly find a tiny church on a little square. Some people even built one in their own garden! Almost all houses are plastered white, often with bright coloured doors and window shutters. And the electricity meter next to the door :D well I guess that makes things easier for the meter reader!

We made a day trip to Vai, supposedly the only palm beach in Europe, on the eastern most part of Crete. Unfortunately we chose the only rainy day during our stay in Crete for this trip! The beach was beautiful, and the snorkelling was really great there.

On the way to Vai, we stopped in Sitka, where we found a bakery with lots of cakes, mmmm! The beautiful beach at Vai... shame this was our only day with rain!

While we were snorkelling, the rain turned into a proper thunderstorm with very heavy rain. We decided we might as well stay in the water, while everybody else was leaving the beach as fast as they could. We thought it wouldn’t last that long, but it did… So in the end we did come out of the water, to find our bag on the beach half soaked. Try to change clothes while it’s raining heavily… we thought we could use the changing rooms, but it turned out everybody had left the beach, including the shop/cafe owners, and they had locked all the toilets and changing rooms :|. In the end we waited for the rain to stop while in the car with the blowers on :D When the rain stopped, we went for a walk around the palm forest. It’s quite big, but unfortunately you can’t walk through the forest as they are trying to protect the palms.

The palm beach at Vai... And if you think it must have been cold, no, those were just the only clothes I had with me that were still dry! I was boiling in them.

On our last day before leaving, we decided it was time to explore the village we had been staying in :D It’s called Vasiliki, and it only has about 150 inhabitants – of which I estimate the average age is somewhere around 80 :D We ended up walking in the mountains, to a viewpoint where you can see both the sea on the east side and on the south side. This is the view walking up…

The valley that our village was in, and in the middle you can see Ha gorge

It was a nice walk, and we also saw a big bird of prey from the top. It was too far away to see what it was – they have vultures here which I would have liked to see!

Going for walk in the mountains We wanted to take a picture of ourselves, but then we spotted a big bird of prey and watched that instead of the camera!

In the evening we went to our favourite beach for a last swim. It was another windy day and the waves were huge. I wonder whether it’s just always that windy on Crete or whether it was coincidence? I’m not complaining though, it kept the heat tolerable. We watched the sunset from the deserted beach, it was wonderful to watch the waves crash on the beach.

Paul at our favourite beach. That evening the waves were enormous! It's a bit hard to see, but behind him a very high wave is just about to break Obviously Paul is better at sitting still than I am! Still, I love this picture... it was such a beautiful evening on the beach, our last night on Crete Watching the waves crash in the twilight just after sunset

Our last day was spent driving back to Chania for our flight back, but we stopped in Knossos on the way. I think we picked the perfect day to visit – there weren’t many visitors and it was cool weather. I never took Greek in school so I didn’t know much about Knossos and the myths attached to it, but it was really interesting to see the ruins and learn more. Knossos is the site of a palace that was built from about 1700 BC! The archaeologist who dug it up tried to rebuilt part of the palace himself, as he thought it would have looked like. Of course you can question whether that is scientifically the correct thing to do ;) but it was very pretty and you got a better idea of what the castle might have looked like.  It must have been an amazing place back then… An interesting visit!

Knossos, the fresco of the minotaur Paul overlooking the ruins at Knossos The room of the queen - of course I had to get a picture of the dolphins :)

It was sad to have our trip come to an end… we really enjoyed the relaxing week, all the swimming and the great meals outside. Having a week of holiday (and summer!) after Paul’s cruise and before the winter starts was a great idea, we might do it again next year :)

From Summer to Winter

We came back from Crete a week ago – we had a wonderful time there, swimming in the sea every day, eating outside for every meal, lots of sunshine and temperatures between 20 and 28 degrees. Coming back to Tromsø was a bit of a shock – it was 5 degrees and raining when we arrived. I had planned to change clothes in the airport on Crete, but didn’t get a chance – so I stepped out of the plane in Tromsø still wearing shorts and tshirt, brrrrr :D. Two days later came another weather shock – SNOW! It’s been snowing quite a lot in the last week, we’ve had about 10 cm. It’s not cold enough to stay on the ground for very long though. Unfortunately I haven’t taken any good photos of the snow (and today it warmed up and started raining), but I did take this photo of Polaria reflected in a large pond created by melting snow. Polaria is a museum, and Paul works in the building behind it.

Polaria reflected in a large pond

We took lots of photos in Crete, I’m still trying to sort them for on the blog. Today I am leaving for a mini cruise though, taking the Hurtigruten from Tromsø to Kirkenes and back. I will travel on one of the older ships, the MS Lofoten. I’ll be back in Tromsø on Tuesday night. I’ll publish the photos from Crete when I get back. Have a nice weekend!


The sunset this evening was so beautiful… We walked over to Telegrafbukta, and watched the sunset reflected in the calm fjord. There were lots of people enjoying the beautiful evening, both on the shore and on the water :)

Paul watching the sunset from the jetty at Telegrafbukta We weren't the only ones enjoying this beautiful evening...

We’ve had another couple of days beginning with morning fog, followed by sunshine and a crispy clear evening… this autumn has been so nice! It’s coming to an end though, most leaves have fallen off the trees and there is a chill in the air announcing that winter is near. Not for us though – our bags are packed and the taxi is booked, Crete here we come! Back in a week, with lots of photos I am sure :D