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Month: November 2012

Mørketid is here…

Mørketid is here…

Today we saw the sun for the very last time – for the coming two months it won’t come above the horizon. Last Saturday we ceremonially said goodbye to the sun by eating a mørketidsbolle (dark-time-doughnut) at the beach…

Goodbye sun!

The dark time does have its advantages though – plenty of opportunities for seeing the aurora! And the sad feeling of saying goodbye to the sun was soon forgotten this evening – we got quite a show…

Aurora from Ersfjordbotn Looking north from the foot of Store Blåmann

The aurora started as soon as it got dark, but I had to eat something before going out, and I left the house at 17:30. Some clouds were moving in from the south at Ersfjordbotn, so I moved to a place with a view to the north.

Rocks & Northern Lights At times the northern lights were brighter

There were some clouds here too, but it didn’t matter. I was fiddling with my camera trying to get a photo of a frozen puddle, when I happened to look behind me: WOW!!! The sky had gone crazy!

I was playing with the fisheye lens, trying to use a frozen pond as a foreground I turned around and suddenly the sky looked like THIS!

For a while, fast-moving aurora filled the whole sky – it was very impressive 🙂

Even the fisheye lens wasn't wide enough for capturing the bright active aurora A bright beam straight overhead

It calmed down again, and I decided to drive back towards Tromsø. I made another stop near Håkøya, as I noticed the lights had started dancing again…

Aurora reflected in the fjord Trees and aurora, taken near Håkøya

And even though the show continued, I drove home for some hot chocolate and photo editing. I got back just after 21:00 – not bad! A great start to the mørketid, bring it on 😀

Whale Safari

Whale Safari

In the past week, whales have been spotted everywhere along the coast near Tromsø. Some reports said there were hundreds of them! Of course, we had to check it out… so yesterday we took our inflatable boat to the beach at Grøtfjord and we went out in search of whales. We saw a flew splashes at the horizon, and because the sea was very calm (almost flat) we figured it might be whales – but it turned out to be waves crashing on a rock 😀

Then we saw a huge group of birds and decided to check it out. They were swarming over a school of herring that was surfacing, the sea was boiling with them! The birds flew up and circled around us – a spectacular sight!

The sea boiling with crazy herring We were surrounded by LOTS of birds!

We thought the whales would surely come to eat the herring, as this is the reason they are around now – but there were no whales to be seen. We entered a few fjords, looking for activity – but nothing. Instead we spotted a big jellyfish 😀 Luckily it was a very mild day and there was no wind – so we didn’t get cold sitting in the boat.

The fishing boats were out for herring too A colourful jellyfish

At some point it started to get dark and our patience ran out, so we returned to the beach, slightly disappointed. We had already gotten the boat out of the water and started taking it apart next to the car, when a group of people approached us to ask if we had seen the whales. They had also just come back from a boat trip, and had seen lots of whales, just around the corner! They strongly encouraged us to go back and check them out before it got completely dark. It didn’t take long to decide: we were going back 😀

And after being directed to the right place, it didn’t take long to find two humpback whales! We could see their spray from a long way away. It was so exciting to get close to them – at times only a couple of meters! At first I was a bit scared, as our boat is small and they are so BIG, but they move very graciously and I got the feeling they are quite aware of their surroundings.

YES! Our first whale sighting :) It was very exciting to get so close to these mighty creatures

We followed them for a while, as they surfaced and dove under again. Unfortunately it was quite dark by then, so the photos we got are quite grainy and not always very sharp. But the experience was unforgettable 🙂

A fin with barnacles :) Diving under

The two of them… the town in the background is Tromvik (on the the left), and the island on the right is Vengsøya.

They are so big, yet very graceful in their movements... There were 2 of them swimming together

They were spraying and breathing out with funny noises. Apparently their breath smells really bad, but we didn’t get THAT close 😉

Blowing out Mission succeeded, happy girl :)

At some point they dove under, showing their classic tail (we didn’t get a photo unfortunately) – and I knew that meant they are diving deep and not coming up for a while. Indeed, they didn’t return and we also decided to go home before it got completely dark.

What a day! The online papers and other websites are full of stories of people’s encounters with whales, it’s been quite a magic weekend for many – even people without boats, as they appeared really close to the coast. Check out these photos from a family in kayaks, these amazing pictures from near Musvær, and a series of pictures taken from Sommarøy. And my favourite series of photos from Espen Bergersen where you can actually see the herring jumping around while the whales are eating – fantastic! He saw orca’s too – I’m jealous 🙂

USA Adventure Part 5: Little Wild Horse Canyon

USA Adventure Part 5: Little Wild Horse Canyon

After three days in Moab, it was time to move on. We drove about a 100 miles, our final destination that day was Goblin Valley State Park. However, thanks to our hiking book (100 Hikes in Utah by Steve Mann and Rhett Olson, published by Mountaineer Books) we knew there was a slot canyon very close to the state park. Little Wild Horse Canyon (what a poetic name!) was described as perhaps the best easy slot-canyon hike in the Southwest – so we just had to check it out 🙂

From the trailhead parking, you follow a dry river bed for nearly a km, and then the walls start closing in on both side and quite soon you are in a narrow canyon. We had never seen anything like this before, and were very excited 😀

Getting to the narrow bit of Little Wild Horse Canyon Swiss cheese!

At times the canyon was barely wide enough for your feet, and you just had to hope you weren’t going to meet someone coming from the opposite direction in that section 😉 There were quite a few other people doing the same hike.

Here we could see the sky, but most of the time the canyon was too high and narrow for that I felt like quite a model on this hike...

Almost all our photos from the canyon have people in it, as it’s impossible to show the scale and width of the canyon otherwise! You’re basically walking through a narrow riverbed, which at times of flash flooding turns into a wild river. You can see evidence of the water carving the sandstone rocks everywhere, as you zigzag your way up the canyon.

Every time I turned around, I saw this... :D Beautiful patterns

Smile, smile, smile… I was followed by paparazzi 😀

Hanneke the Explorer ;) And Hanneke the Model :D

Paul even climbed higher up the canyon wall to get photos from above. Luckily he also found some other models in the canyon: lizards 😀

The photographer even climbed above me to get another photo! Finally, Paul found another model to pester ;)

I had a go at climbing up a bit higher, the canyon walls are sometimes so close together that it’s not that difficult…

Climbing higher up, like a spider :D Another photo from above

At some points the patterns in the wall were changing, and there were so many holes that it looked like Swiss cheese 🙂

Here the patterns on the walls were changing, lots of holes More Swiss cheese ;)

My favourite part of the canyon!

A cairn, in case you lose your way inside the slot canyon :D The most fantastic part of the canyon!

As the light got softer late in the afternoon, I took some more abstract photos of the smooth rock.

Smooth walls We had to zigzag our way through this canyon

We came across these iron oxide balls in the canyon walls. Some were whole, like marbles, and some were broken open and hollow inside. I found out later that these are also known as Moqui Marbles. Moqui is Hopi for “dearly departed ones”. According to legend, the departed ancestors play with the marbles in the evening when they are allowed to visit the earth, and they leave the marbles behind at sunrise to let their relatives know they are happy and well 🙂 Apparently they can also stabalize your energy field when it’s disrupted by for example night shifts, so perhaps I should have brought some home with me 😀 I wish I had known more about them when while we were there, as there are some places where huge ones lie around on the ground, like in this photo – would have loved to see that!

Iron oxide balls in the canyon wall: these are also called Moqui Marbles A close up of a Moqui Marble

Finally, the canyon opens up again into a wide space. From here, you can climb out the canyon and drop into another slot canyon that brings you back to the parking lot. But as it was getting late, and Paul was suffering from a cold, we walked back the same way – either way, the canyon is so pretty that we didn’t mind backtracking 🙂

Finally the canyon opened up, from here you can either take the long way back through another slot canyon, or backtrack the way you came

What an adventure! We really enjoyed the slot canyon 🙂